POR-15 from a garden sprayer?

[Josh ChaitinPollak]

A co-worker suggested that one of those hand-pumped garden sprayers
could be used to spray thinned Por-15 on a chassis. Does anyone have
any thoughts on this?

Short of sand-blasting or an acid bath, what's the best way to prep a
chassis for paint?

I plan on doing the whole Metal-ready, zinc-etch, Por-15 route, but I
don't have a sand blaster available. Maybe a paint striping solution?

-Josh

[Thor Carlson]

Por means:

P aint
O ver
R ust

I don't think you're supposed to sandblast first.

Post by Josh ChaitinPollak
A co-worker suggested that one of those hand-pumped garden sprayers
could be used to spray thinned Por-15 on a chassis. Does anyone have
any thoughts on this?
Short of sand-blasting or an acid bath, what's the best way to prep a
chassis for paint?
I plan on doing the whole Metal-ready, zinc-etch, Por-15 route, but I
don't have a sand blaster available. Maybe a paint striping solution?
-Josh

[Josh ChaitinPollak]

Post by Thor Carlson
P aint
O ver
R ust
I don't think you're supposed to sandblast first.

But the rust is all underneath old paint!

[DARKEY!]

all rust neutralizers/encapsulators/conversions Do need some rust as a
base for adhesion, plus their formulation is intended for interaction
with the components present in rust versus bare metal.
remove flaking paint and rust scale, but while it goes against
instinct and logic, you must leave a thin layer of rust for the
converter to work properly.

por 15 and eastwood are both very good products; each has their
supporters. i like them both equally.

there are specific formulas intended for spraying instead of brushing.
i believe diluting it will decrease its efficiency - not to mention
you'll need a barrel of solvent and time to clean that sprayer if you
ever plan to use it again.

this is based on my experience - i'm sure someone will disagree! ;-)

when i lived in ultra rural vermont, pennsylvania and new hampshire
35+ years ago, it was common to flood and spray motor oil - even used
- straight, or in various degrees of dilution into rocker panels,
doors, body seams, wheel wells, etc, etc, as sort of a poor mans
ziebart; in this practice predated ziebart by decades. it also had the
"benefit" of the dripping residual oil helping to keep the dust down
on dirt roads. service stations even offered this service, often done
spring and fall.

its not done any longer!

chris in ny

[Andrew D. Peterson]

Post by DARKEY!
there are specific formulas intended for spraying instead of
brushing.

And you need a sprayer that is made for use with them. Garden sprayers are
for garden chemicals.

Post by DARKEY!
i believe diluting it will decrease its efficiency - not to
mention you'll need a barrel of solvent and time to clean
that sprayer if you ever plan to use it again.

And the internal parts of the sprayer need to be compatible with the
components of the solvent and the stuff you're spraying.

Some products are available in aeresol spray formulation. I believe
Eastwood's rust emulsion is.

At one job that I worked, we had a cleanroom area that had to be washed
down with disinfectant. We tried using a "garden variety" sprayer to spray
a chemical bleach and the bleach ate the rubber seals and clogged the
sprayer in rather short order. Another sprayer we got worked better with
the chamicals, but still had some issues.

Post by DARKEY!
when i lived in ultra rural vermont, pennsylvania and new
hampshire 35+ years ago, it was common to flood and spray
motor oil - even used - straight, or in various degrees of
dilution into rocker panels, doors, body seams, wheel wells,
etc, etc, as sort of a poor mans ziebart; in this practice
predated ziebart by decades. it also had the "benefit" of the
dripping residual oil helping to keep the dust down on dirt
roads. service stations even offered this service, often done
spring and fall.

There was a garage down the street from where I worked in Marlborough NH
that made a lot of money doing this in the fall.

Andy in PDX OR