Bullnose Bumper Stud Repair

[Jon Newquist Clary [e-mail] [vSAAB]]

I'd be tempted to try the jb weld.  With the load spread over multiple fasteners,I bet it would hold up to daily use just fine.  Not sure about providing any crash protection at all, but pre-74 bumpers don't really do much anyway, except damage multiplication.  :wink:


--
jon newquist clary | n1nes

-------- Original message --------
From: "Tom Nelson ***@wispertel.net [vSAAB]"
Date:07/16/2014 8:33 AM (GMT-07:00)
To: VSAAB List - Unmoderated
Subject: [vSAAB] Bullnose Bumper Stud Repair [1 Attachment]

When we disassembled the bumpers on Project RedBull ('61 Saab 96) last year we were only able to save 3-4 of the many 1/4" studs that support the body color panels front and rear. Has anyone got a good way to reattach these 1/4"x1/2" long studs without destroying the chrome plating? the heat of welding to the chrome plated steel doesn't sound too viable.

Can a short threaded-section be re-welded to the broken studs? Can you grind off the remaining stud "button" and weld in a 1/2" long bolt directly to the bumper? Use JB weld? or any other novel fixes? Maybe drill and tap into the broken off stud for a smaller bolt ...... can't get a straight shot to drill due to inside of the bumper channel.

Anyone do this repair before? I'd be interested in any ideas.

Tom, aka ElkMtnMan

[Chuck #251 [e-mail] [vSAAB]]

Ok first off I'm not 100% this will work (#2 of 3) due to the temperatutes chrome can aquire in direct sunlight.
First recomendation:
"Marine tex" epoxy. It does repairs to cracked engine blocks like a charm! It is available at most boat shops. Made by philadelphia resins co.
You are going to have to grind off all of existing stud leaving the head of stud welded to underside of face bar. Next grind off most of the head ( get it as thin as comfortably possible) so the sand shield gets as close to the back side of the face bar as possible. Next...follow epoxy mixing instructions. Clean rust and grease free surfaces. Epoxy 1/4" ground down bolts thin ground head of bolt to remaining pad from original stud you ground down. Be liberal with epoxy at each installation! This stuff is a slow cure epoxy! Do not attempt to acelerate it's cure rate with a heat gun or blow dryer! A long and slow curing epoxy is more durable thsn a fast cure epoxy. Plan to wait at least a day before attempting any assembly.
Second recomrndation:
3M "structural adhesive". 2 part epoxy available at autobody supply shops. Similar to bonding adhesive used to assemble F1 body tubs. Truly a super adhesive , but may mind the heat from chrome in direct sunlight over time. Same prepetation as above....just a less heat tolerant adhesive.
Last but least:
Grind stud on face bar & prepare a 1/4" bolt as above and find someone with a spot welder. May slightly discolor chrome directly at stud attachment. And...may not!
So there ya go. Something to ponder and to shop for... ;)
Chuck

Sent from my LG Mobile

Post by Jon Newquist Clary n1nes-qI0wCGWwO+***@public.gmane.org [vSAAB]
When we disassembled the bumpers on Project RedBull ('61 Saab 96) last year we were only able to save 3-4 of the many 1/4" studs that support the body color panels front and rear. Has anyone got a good way to reattach these 1/4"x1/2" long studs without destroying the chrome plating? the heat of welding to the chrome plated steel doesn't sound too viable.
Can a short threaded-section be re-welded to the broken studs? Can you grind off the remaining stud "button" and weld in a 1/2" long bolt directly to the bumper? Use JB weld? or any other novel fixes? Maybe drill and tap into the broken off stud for a smaller bolt ...... can't get a straight shot to drill due to inside of the bumper channel.
Anyone do this repair before? I'd be interested in any ideas.
Tom, aka ElkMtnMan

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[Tom Nelson [e-mail] [vSAAB]]

Chuck....... you are a wealth of good ideas as usual!!! Thanx.

Apparently the epoxy solutions you suggest are better than JB Weld?

Sand Shield? So that's what those panels are called; makes sense. And minimum gap is the original approach? I think RedBull had washers under the shield to space it from the chromed bumper.

Tom, aka ElkMtnMan

Post by Chuck #251 crusaderchuck55-***@public.gmane.org [vSAAB]
Ok first off I'm not 100% this will work (#2 of 3) due to the temperatutes chrome can aquire in direct sunlight.
"Marine tex" epoxy. It does repairs to cracked engine blocks like a charm! It is available at most boat shops. Made by philadelphia resins co.
You are going to have to grind off all of existing stud leaving the head of stud welded to underside of face bar. Next grind off most of the head ( get it as thin as comfortably possible) so the sand shield gets as close to the back side of the face bar as possible. Next...follow epoxy mixing instructions. Clean rust and grease free surfaces. Epoxy 1/4" ground down bolts thin ground head of bolt to remaining pad from original stud you ground down. Be liberal with epoxy at each installation! This stuff is a slow cure epoxy! Do not attempt to acelerate it's cure rate with a heat gun or blow dryer! A long and slow curing epoxy is more durable thsn a fast cure epoxy. Plan to wait at least a day before attempting any assembly.
3M "structural adhesive". 2 part epoxy available at autobody supply shops. Similar to bonding adhesive used to assemble F1 body tubs. Truly a super adhesive , but may mind the heat from chrome in direct sunlight over time. Same prepetation as above....just a less heat tolerant adhesive.
Grind stud on face bar & prepare a 1/4" bolt as above and find someone with a spot welder. May slightly discolor chrome directly at stud attachment. And...may not!
So there ya go. Something to ponder and to shop for... ;)
Chuck
Sent from my LG Mobile

Post by Jon Newquist Clary n1nes-qI0wCGWwO+***@public.gmane.org [vSAAB]
When we disassembled the bumpers on Project RedBull ('61 Saab 96) last year we were only able to save 3-4 of the many 1/4" studs that support the body color panels front and rear. Has anyone got a good way to reattach these 1/4"x1/2" long studs without destroying the chrome plating? the heat of welding to the chrome plated steel doesn't sound too viable.
Can a short threaded-section be re-welded to the broken studs? Can you grind off the remaining stud "button" and weld in a 1/2" long bolt directly to the bumper? Use JB weld? or any other novel fixes? Maybe drill and tap into the broken off stud for a smaller bolt ...... can't get a straight shot to drill due to inside of the bumper channel.
Anyone do this repair before? I'd be interested in any ideas.
Tom, aka ElkMtnMan

[Bill Trench [e-mail] [vSAAB]]

Just want to second Marine Tex. The best in my book.

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Posted by: Bill Trench <btren-***@public.gmane.org>
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[Chuck #251 [e-mail] [vSAAB]]

Those two epoxies eclipse jb weld. ;)
Chuck

Sent from my LG Mobile

Post by Tom Nelson tom10-+mvbHnN81+***@public.gmane.org [vSAAB]
Chuck....... you are a wealth of good ideas as usual!!! Thanx.
Apparently the epoxy solutions you suggest are better than JB Weld?
Sand Shield? So that's what those panels are called; makes sense. And minimum gap is the original approach? I think RedBull had washers under the shield to space it from the chromed bumper.
Tom, aka ElkMtnMan

Post by Chuck #251 crusaderchuck55-***@public.gmane.org [vSAAB]
Ok first off I'm not 100% this will work (#2 of 3) due to the temperatutes chrome can aquire in direct sunlight.
"Marine tex" epoxy. It does repairs to cracked engine blocks like a charm! It is available at most boat shops. Made by philadelphia resins co.
You are going to have to grind off all of existing stud leaving the head of stud welded to underside of face bar. Next grind off most of the head ( get it as thin as comfortably possible) so the sand shield gets as close to the back side of the face bar as possible. Next...follow epoxy mixing instructions. Clean rust and grease free surfaces. Epoxy 1/4" ground down bolts thin ground head of bolt to remaining pad from original stud you ground down. Be liberal with epoxy at each installation! This stuff is a slow cure epoxy! Do not attempt to acelerate it's cure rate with a heat gun or blow dryer! A long and slow curing epoxy is more durable thsn a fast cure epoxy. Plan to wait at least a day before attempting any assembly.
3M "structural adhesive". 2 part epoxy available at autobody supply shops. Similar to bonding adhesive used to assemble F1 body tubs. Truly a super adhesive , but may mind the heat from chrome in direct sunlight over time. Same prepetation as above....just a less heat tolerant adhesive.
Grind stud on face bar & prepare a 1/4" bolt as above and find someone with a spot welder. May slightly discolor chrome directly at stud attachment. And...may not!
So there ya go. Something to ponder and to shop for... ;)
Chuck
Sent from my LG Mobile

Post by Jon Newquist Clary n1nes-qI0wCGWwO+***@public.gmane.org [vSAAB]
When we disassembled the bumpers on Project RedBull ('61 Saab 96) last year we were only able to save 3-4 of the many 1/4" studs that support the body color panels front and rear. Has anyone got a good way to reattach these 1/4"x1/2" long studs without destroying the chrome plating? the heat of welding to the chrome plated steel doesn't sound too viable.
Can a short threaded-section be re-welded to the broken studs? Can you grind off the remaining stud "button" and weld in a 1/2" long bolt directly to the bumper? Use JB weld? or any other novel fixes? Maybe drill and tap into the broken off stud for a smaller bolt ...... can't get a straight shot to drill due to inside of the bumper channel.
Anyone do this repair before? I'd be interested in any ideas.
Tom, aka ElkMtnMan

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[Chuck #251 [e-mail] [vSAAB]]

Ah-ha! Washers between face bar and shield would keep vibration from cutting the paint with edge of face bar. BUT! If you are epoxying replacement fastners , that alone begins spacing of the panels away from the face bar. Be carefull as you are going to need to shim across the pieces to get a uniform level surface side to side. Shiney & wavey do not go together.
Chuck

Sent from my LG Mobile

Post by Tom Nelson tom10-+mvbHnN81+***@public.gmane.org [vSAAB]
Chuck....... you are a wealth of good ideas as usual!!! Thanx.
Apparently the epoxy solutions you suggest are better than JB Weld?
Sand Shield? So that's what those panels are called; makes sense. And minimum gap is the original approach? I think RedBull had washers under the shield to space it from the chromed bumper.
Tom, aka ElkMtnMan

Post by Chuck #251 crusaderchuck55-***@public.gmane.org [vSAAB]
Ok first off I'm not 100% this will work (#2 of 3) due to the temperatutes chrome can aquire in direct sunlight.
"Marine tex" epoxy. It does repairs to cracked engine blocks like a charm! It is available at most boat shops. Made by philadelphia resins co.
You are going to have to grind off all of existing stud leaving the head of stud welded to underside of face bar. Next grind off most of the head ( get it as thin as comfortably possible) so the sand shield gets as close to the back side of the face bar as possible. Next...follow epoxy mixing instructions. Clean rust and grease free surfaces. Epoxy 1/4" ground down bolts thin ground head of bolt to remaining pad from original stud you ground down. Be liberal with epoxy at each installation! This stuff is a slow cure epoxy! Do not attempt to acelerate it's cure rate with a heat gun or blow dryer! A long and slow curing epoxy is more durable thsn a fast cure epoxy. Plan to wait at least a day before attempting any assembly.
3M "structural adhesive". 2 part epoxy available at autobody supply shops. Similar to bonding adhesive used to assemble F1 body tubs. Truly a super adhesive , but may mind the heat from chrome in direct sunlight over time. Same prepetation as above....just a less heat tolerant adhesive.
Grind stud on face bar & prepare a 1/4" bolt as above and find someone with a spot welder. May slightly discolor chrome directly at stud attachment. And...may not!
So there ya go. Something to ponder and to shop for... ;)
Chuck
Sent from my LG Mobile

Post by Jon Newquist Clary n1nes-qI0wCGWwO+***@public.gmane.org [vSAAB]
When we disassembled the bumpers on Project RedBull ('61 Saab 96) last year we were only able to save 3-4 of the many 1/4" studs that support the body color panels front and rear. Has anyone got a good way to reattach these 1/4"x1/2" long studs without destroying the chrome plating? the heat of welding to the chrome plated steel doesn't sound too viable.
Can a short threaded-section be re-welded to the broken studs? Can you grind off the remaining stud "button" and weld in a 1/2" long bolt directly to the bumper? Use JB weld? or any other novel fixes? Maybe drill and tap into the broken off stud for a smaller bolt ...... can't get a straight shot to drill due to inside of the bumper channel.
Anyone do this repair before? I'd be interested in any ideas.
Tom, aka ElkMtnMan

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['Derek Scott' dereks-ne6/[e-mail] [vSAAB]]

A long flat strip of suitable length and width but thin enough to easily
conform with the curve of the bumper could be furnished with welded/brazed
on studs in the positions needed. A larger hole can be drilled in the strip
to fit over each of the good studs. Lots of surface area would allow the
strip to be bonded to the bumper without the need for the adhesion to be
100% perfect. The combination of the old and the new studs should do the
job.



Derek UK

[Tom Nelson [e-mail] [vSAAB]]

Derek....... that is another good idea. Thanx. It opens up other possibilities for a good solution, including segments of thin steel with the studs welded in place.

Tom, aka ElkMtnMan

A long flat strip of suitable length and width but thin enough to easily conform with the curve of the bumper could be furnished with welded/brazed on studs in the positions needed. A larger hole can be drilled in the strip to fit over each of the good studs. Lots of surface area would allow the strip to be bonded to the bumper without the need for the adhesion to be 100% perfect. The combination of the old and the new studs should do the job.
Derek UK

[Bill Trench [e-mail] [vSAAB]]

could the strips/bars be captured by the bumper's studs ?

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[Tom Nelson [e-mail] [vSAAB]]

<*>[Attachment(s) from Tom Nelson included below]

The problem appears to be the broken studs that interfere with the new bolts/studs that want to be in the same locations to match the holes in the shield. So whatever I do I will need to grind off the remains from the broken studs.



<*>Attachment(s) from Tom Nelson:


<*> 1 of 1 File(s) https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/vSAAB/attachments/186630666
<*> pastedGraphic.pdf

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[Ewing [e-mail] [vSAAB]]

So the obvious answer of welding in new studs and rechroming is out of the question?

Lester

Post by Tom Nelson tom10-+mvbHnN81+***@public.gmane.org [vSAAB]
The problem appears to be the broken studs that interfere with the new bolts/studs that want to be in the same locations to match the holes in the shield. So whatever I do I will need to grind off the remains from the broken studs.
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Tom, aka ElkMtnMan

Post by Bill Trench btren-***@public.gmane.org [vSAAB]
could the strips/bars be captured by the bumper's studs ?
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[Tom Nelson [e-mail] [vSAAB]]

<*>[Attachment(s) from Tom Nelson included below]

That was the approach used on the front center section Lester....... the rest of the pieces are the best we sorted out from 3 different cars so they are adequate condition for this application. Hence I don't want to re-chrome them unless we come upon a sponsor that might want to throw $$$$ at the project.



<*>Attachment(s) from Tom Nelson:


<*> 1 of 1 File(s) https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/vSAAB/attachments/874947373
<*> pastedGraphic.pdf

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